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Mystery
no more
Text and photos by Lawrence D. Casiraya,
BusinessWorld Online Reporter
Horror stories have always preceded Siquijor's natural beauty.
Tales of witchcraft and supernatural phenomenon, repeatedly documented
on television and publications, lend credence to the island's
mystical appeal.
The real mystery, though, lies in the island's magnificent beaches
waiting to be discovered by those who are bold enough to visit
it.
After two days of frenzied traveling, my friends and I finally
landed on the island on a Holy Thursday. I swear I could have
kissed the ground upon landing. After spending all two days in
an exhausting search of a way to get to the island, it would be
quite fitting to have actually done that.
It was the most ill-opportune time to travel to Siquijor, especially
when all inter-island ferries are fully booked and you have to
constantly pray that some people would, by some twist of fate,
be able to miss their trip. But is was well worth the hassle the
moment we got off the boat and saw the wide stretch of white sand
that loomed before us.
TO EACH HIS OWN BEACH
The island offers a variety of beaches that would suit any person's
mood or preference. Located in the northernmost tip of the island,
Sandugan Beach near Larena is fairly deserted and suits people
who prefer to relax and commune with the quiet atmosphere of the
sea but not to be totally isolated. There are three resorts in
Sandugan including the Casa del Playa, where my friends and I
stayed.
In Sandugan, the coast is dotted by a few mangrove trees (which
makes for better pictures especially during sunset), a long and
wide stretch of sand before the water. There is a wonderful stretch
of coral reefs in a particular portion of the water, indicated
by green-colored sand near it.
During high tide at night when water covers the shore, one can
take a dip in shallow water and even horse around the mangrove
trees. When the tide wears down in the morning, one can take a
walk around the shore and pick up from a myriad of things that
have been washed ashore, including corals and dried starfishes.
Locals go out early in the morning to pick up sea urchins and
seaweed. They will even afford people a free taste of what they
have in their baskets.
If one prefers a more festive atmosphere, Salag-Doong Beach near
Maria Bay is a good choice although the beach is not quite as
long and wide as Sandugan. The beach is said to be the favorite
for family outings in the island -- despite the fact that it is
a two kilometer walk from the main road. Although the place was
quite crowded when we got there near lunchtime, the water was
nevertheless too clear and tempting enough for us to take a dip.
A structure carved out of huge stones lies in the middle of the
shore, a stairway leading to a mini-gazebo on top which offers
an excellent view of the entire beach. The canopy of trees also
offer an inviting treat to just laze around and enjoy the cool
midday breeze. For the more adventurous, one can go down a set
of rocks, collectively called Devils' Point, and jump into the
water. Not recommended for acrophobics like me, though.
On the other hand, one needs to go down a winding stairway to
discover Kagusuan Beach in Lilo-an. The stretch of white sand
contrasts beautifully with the almost royal blue color of the
water which could be seen from the shore. If Kagusuan's shore
were long enough, it can definitely rival or even best Boracay.
The long row of coconut trees that line the coastline of Paliton
Beach in Tambisan provide an idyllic picture, reminding me of
the 70s TV show Hawaii Five-O. I could almost picture myself there
lying on an easy chair with my hands propped to my head, watching
the sunset while having a drink of buko (coconut) juice. The atmosphere
is very much soothing and conducive for just lazing around, reading
a book while listening to the rustling of coconut trees.
There
are other excellent beach resorts in the island like the famous
CocoGrove and Coral Cay resorts. Unfortunately, both resorts were
closed since we wandered around the island on a Good Friday. I
was told by some locals that beaches in the town of Minalo-an
are also as equally beautiful as Salag-Doong.
Tourism is yet to be a major industry in Siquijor. Since Holy
Week is traditionally a long holiday for most Filipinos, I was
expecting to acquaint myself with fellow Filipino travelers during
my stay in the island.
Interestingly, most of the travelers I bumped into were foreigners,
who sing no end of praises for Siquijor's wonderful beaches. Now,
there really is no big mystery about that. -- Lawrence D.
Casiraya
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