For the past several years, I have found
myself at a loss for words whenever I am
asked about what happens in Siquijor during
Holy Week. I've heard about the gathering
of folk healers, alleged sorcerers and
what-have-you at this time of the year. But apart from that, I
didn't know anything more.

So, primarily out of curiosity, my wife and I found ourselves on a
boat for Siquijor last Holy Thursday. From the eager and excited
faces of the many first-time visitors on the the fully-booked Delta
2 that afternoon, it seemed like most of the passengers were on
the lookout for a wonderful time.

The sea was rather choppy, thanks to the Amihan (north wind),
but thank God it was all over in 45 minutes. Erich Mack was on
hand to meet us at the port of Siquijor. Together with wife Arlene,
a former teacher at the St. Paul College, Erich runs the five-room
Royal Cliff Resort in barangay Maite, San Juan town--the next
town from Siquijor.

San Juan is at its best at this time of the year when the wind comes
in from the north because it is well protected. As such, its beaches
are calm and clean. San Juan has the most number of beach
resorts in the island, foremost of which is the Coco Groove
Resort, which even boasts of a swimming pool for its guests. But
the municipal government runs the biggest freshwater swimming
pool there is in the island, which is right in front of the town hall. It
comes from a natural spring, and San Juan is known for the very
good quality of their drinking water.

My only lament upon reaching the town was that my cellphone
went dead. Call me a slave of technology, but that kept me uneasy
many a time, because I was out of reach from whatever news was
happening in the outside world (read Apo island, where the
salvage and recovery operations were ongoing for the Chinook
helicopter).

But I seemed right at home because I remained very mobile,
thanks to a motorcycle which I was able to rent for P250 per day.
I had thought of bringing my own motorcycle to the island, but
Delta charges P300 one-way. So it does make sense to just rent a
motorcycle if you're staying for less than three days.

We didn't want to lose time. After unloading our bags, we
immediately went to barangay San Antonio in Siquijor, the most
publicized location for faith healing and even sorcery, if the other
quack doctors are to be believed.

One thing good about driving in Siquijor is that you never get lost.
If you think you are lost, the friendly people will make sure you
find your way. That's how it was on our way to San Antonio.

After about thirty minutes, we made it to the house of Juan Ponce,
one of two persons in that barangay with the same name.

The amiable old man of 84 seemed used to receiving visits from
journalists. Asked how one could distinguish between him and his
namesake, he replied, "I was featured on TV!"

But nothing much was happening that day. In fact, the other
medicine men who had come from afar for the Holy Week rituals
were just playing cards when we came. The interesting photos,
they said, could be taken on Black Saturday because that's the
day they mix their brew.

So we went for a leisurely drive around Siquijor town and Larena,
making it back to San Juan by 7 pm. My high school classmate,
Vice Mayor Lyndon Jo and wife Gwen, treated us to dinner. (to
be continued)*